There is this fantastic little restaurant I have to tell you about. It is near impossible to find, unless someone has already recommended it to you. This seafood bistro — run by a self-taught chef and supplied with fresh fish every day — is located on a tiny peninsula in Quiberon, Brittany. The place opened 5 years ago when Hervé Bourdon, who used to work in a major parisian advertising company, decided to buy the hotel-restaurant to fulfil a boyhood dream. Le Petit Hôtel du Grand Large recently acquired it’s first Michelin star, which it more than deserves. The food is high quality and cooked to perfection, often with an original twist. The hotel’s attractively decorated guest rooms overlook the port.
Here is what I had (30€ lunch menu):
Pollock tartare seasoned with yuzu and fresh dill
Fumet of langoustine en mousse
Grilled sea bass topped with rose petals grown on the peninsula, Lapsang Souchong infused potato purée and olive oil emulsion
Organic strawberry and fromage frais sorbets served with hazelnut crumble and crushed sablé Breton
The dishes are highly creative and the chef uses only local products, so the menu changes with the tides and seasons. They also have an excellent wine list, and the waiters will be more than happy to help you pick a bottle to go with your meal. We had a wonderful Muscadet (2009 Gorges from Damien Rineau) with the fish. The wine was rich with a lot of body. The nose recalled fresh mint and the mouthfeel was fruity, and quite “soft” in its thickness. I could also detect bitter grapefruit skin and a faint taste of something slightly caramelised.
Overall the food, the service, the management and the typically Breton atmosphere is just great. This place is Brittany’s best kept secret, but do not be fooled by its isolated location; come lunchtime and this place is always packed. Be sure to book in advance and ask for a table by the windows for a view of the ocean.
11 quai St-Ivy
56510 Portivy
+33297309161
Menu: 30€ (weekday lunch) , 48€ – 70€ – Carte: 53€ – 71€
Mila's Kitchen 